What should I do to prepare for whelping?

During the last week or so of pregnancy, the bitch often starts to look for a secure place for delivery. Pet bitches often become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time wanting to prepare for the forthcoming event. It is therefore a good idea to get the bitch used to the place where you want her to have her puppies well in advance of whelping but even then some bitches insist on having their pups in close proximity to the owner and this is often in the middle of the night. Under these circumstances it is better to let the bitch have her way and then when she has finished, gently try moving her to the place that she should have already been introduced to some days or weeks previously. However some bitches are very determined regarding the place where they want to nurse their puppies and under these circumstances less trauma is caused if, within reason, her demands are met or at least some compromise is achieved, e.g.

The bitch that wants to nurse the puppies on your bed is quietly moved to a whelping box in a corner of the bedroom. Ideally you may prefer her to use the whelping box you had prepared for her in a quiet corner of the kitchen.

Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a dark corner. The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed. The bottom

of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers. These provide disposable, absorbent bedding which the bitch can tear up and reorganise according to her own requirements. At the same time they will absorb the fluids which are always more copious than you would ever expect at the time of whelping. If sufficient thickness of newspaper is laid at the outset, the upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.

What happens during parturition?

Most dogs experience delivery without complications; however, first-time mothers should be observed by their owners until at least one or two puppies are born. If these are born quickly and without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary, provided the bitch is settled.

SIGNS OF IMPENDING WHELPING: 1^st stage labour.

These generally include nervousness and panting. The bitch will often stop eating during the last 24 hours before labour although with some breeds this does not apply. The bitch can be uneasy, frightened, shiver and vomit.

Delivery times will vary. Dogs having slim heads, such as Shelties, Collies, and Dobermans, may complete delivery in one to two hours. Dogs having large, round heads generally require longer delivery times. English Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekingese puppies tend to have sizeable heads that make delivery more difficult. It is not unusual for these breeds to rest an hour or more between each puppy. Rarely, a dog may deliver one or two puppies, then have labour stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is born. However, if the bitch does not start to strain in two hours and you think there are further puppies veterinary advice should be sought without delay.

2^nd stage labour.

Characterised by visible straining. If the delivery proceeds as normal then a few contractions should expel the puppy. It should exit the birth canal within 10 minutes of being visible. Following delivery, the mother should lick the puppy to remove the birth sac and to start the puppy breathing. If the mother seems bewildered, the puppy’s face should be cleared of membrane and fluids and rubbed vigorously with a towel.

The normal birth position:

Puppies are usually born head first; with the head and forelegs extended. This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch. The puppy is born with tail and hindlegs coming first. Breech presentation in which the hindlegs are forward and the tail and rump is presented is abnormal. However it does occur and can result in a normal birth although breech presentations frequently present problems. If a puppy's rump is presented and the bitch is straining continuously without making any progress then veterinary attention should be sought.

Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta (afterbirth). These usually pass after the puppies are born. However, any that do not pass usually disintegrate and are passed within 24-48 hours after delivery. If 48 hours after delivery the bitch has a pus filled or smelly discharge, consult your vet. It is normal for the bitch to eat the placentae.

Call the vet if:

1. After vigorous straining, no puppy is produce within 2 hours.

2. A puppy is seen from the vulva and it is not delivered within 10 minutes.

3. A green discharge is seen from the vulva and no puppies are produced within 4 hours (or 2 hours of active straining).

Sometimes, a caesarian operation is needed to deliver the puppies.

Care of newborn puppies.

Once delivery is completed, the soiled bedding should be removed and clean, dry warm bedding should be put in eg vetbed. If the mother remains close to the puppies then this is sufficient heat for them, if she leaves them for any length of time they will need an alternative heat source eg heat lamp. During the first 4 days of life, the temperature should be around 30 C, by the 10^th day the temperature can be reduced to 26 C and by the 22 C by the 4^th week. Puppies huddle together to keep each other warm and their behaviour is a good indicator as to whether they are receiving enough milk and if they are warm enough.

The mother may have a bloody discharge for 7-14 days post-whelping but as long as it’s not smelly and the bitch is fine then this is not a problem.

Signs of puppies not doing well and what to do:

Puppies should feed and sleep 90% of the time during the first two weeks. Any "mewing" type noises may indicate lack of nourishment or an infection, i.e. they are not thriving. If in doubt consult your veterinary surgeon.

Another good indication of thriving is weight increase. When the milk supply is inadequate, supplemental feeding one to three times per day is recommended and should be performed on any litter with more than 5 or 6 puppies. There are several very good commercial formulae available eg Welpi. The directions on the container should be carefully followed before feeding particularly with regard to temperature. One method of testing the temperature of the feed is to drop some of the warm formula on to your forearm. It should be about the same temperature. The commercial products have directions concerning feeding amounts.  Supplemental feeding may be continued until the puppies are old enough to eat puppy food.

If the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the puppies will also cry. If this occurs, the entire litter could die within 24 to 48 hours. Total replacement feeding, using the mentioned products, or finding a foster mother is usually necessary. If replacement feeding is chosen, the amounts listed on the product container should be fed. Puppies less than 2 weeks of age should be fed every 3-4 hours. Puppies 2-4 weeks of age do well with feedings every 6-8 hours. Weaning in these circumstances, should begin as early as possible and certainly no later than about 3 weeks of age.

What to expect in the first few weeks of life:

For the first month of life, puppies require very little care from the owner because their mother will feed and care for them. They are born with their eyes closed, but they will open in 7 to 14 days. If swelling or bulging is noted under the eyelids, they should be opened gently. Cotton wool dampened with warm water may be used to assist opening the lids. If the swelling is due to infection, pus will exit the open eyelids and should be treated as prescribed by a veterinary surgeon. If the eyes have not opened at 14 -16 days of age, or if there is any pus or discharge, consult your veterinary surgeon at once.

Puppies should be observed for their rate of growth. They should double their birth weight in about one week. The accuracy of the scales is not important, since it is weight increases that you are looking for.

At two weeks of age, puppies should be alert and trying to stand. At three weeks, they generally try to climb out of their box. At four weeks, all of the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play.

Puppies should begin eating solid food about three and a half to four and a half weeks of age. As soon as their eyes are open, one of the bitch milk replacers should be placed in a flat saucer. The puppies' noses can be dipped into this or their noses and mouths wetted with a finger dipped into the formula. Repeat this

2 or 3 times per day until they begin to lap; this usually takes 1-3 days. Next, canned puppy food can be placed in the milk until it is soggy. As the puppies lap the milk, they will also ingest the food. The amount of milk should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or no moisture added; this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age. As soon as they are able to eat it is worthwhile weaning them on to one of the complete puppy foods of which there are many today, both dry and canned as well as semi-moist. Once the puppies are happy with a food there is no need to add vitamin or mineral supplements.

Once the pups are starting to explore their immediate surroundings consider taking them on short car journeys to avoid travel problems when the are older.

Eclampsia

Generally occurs when the puppies are 3-5 weeks old and most often to bigger breed dogs with large litters. It is due to too little calcium in the blood stream due to the heavy milk demands of the puppies.

Signs: muscle spasms, shivering, heavy panting and drooling.

Contact the vet immediately and start supplemental feeding of the puppies.

Mastitis.

The puppies may seem unsettled as they could be hungry due to the bitch not letting them feed. The mammary glands feel hard, hot and painful.

Contact the vet immediately and start supplemental feeding of the puppies.

Worming the bitch and the puppies.

Worms are common in puppies as they can be transmitted from the mother via the placenta before birth and through the milk. Worms will cause decrease growth of the puppy and can cause severe damage to their intestines.

The bitch should be wormed every day from day 42 with Panacur (from the vets) and until 2 days post-whelping. The puppies need worming at 2 weeks, 5 weeks, 8 weeks and then every 4 weeks until 6 months of age (also with Panacur).

Vaccinations.

Puppies are provided with some immunity from diseases via the mother’s milk providing antibodies. This protection only lasts for a few weeks and after this time the puppy becomes susceptible to disease. Do not let the puppies have any contact with unvaccinated dogs. First vaccinations can be started at six weeks of age with a final injection administered at ten weeks.

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